Bhutan Trail Runner: Thimphu – Punakha Heritage Run

Day 1. Arrival at Paro Airport – Thimphu

On arrival at Paro International Airport today, you will be met by your guide. You will be driven by private vehicle to the town of Thimphu. You will be given time to settle into your hotel at  Paro and to rest before joining your guide for an afternoon acclimatization walk around the town. Dinner and overnight stay at Thimphu hotel.

Day 2. Thimphu – Stay

Today, enjoy a rest day spent taking in the best of Thimphu’s numerous attractions. First, head to the scenic Kabisa Valley, just north of Thimphu, to the Choki Traditional Art School. Choki is Bhutan’s only private institution providing free education to underprivileged youths who have a keen interest in learning the traditional arts and crafts. During your visit to the school, you will see students engaged in a number of traditional art forms, including painting, carving, and tapestry. Before heading back into Thimphu, drop in at the Pangri Zampa Monastery, where you will have the chance of a private reading with a monk astrologer. Astrology in Bhutan is an ancient and highly respected science and locals will often consult the stars before making major life decisions such as getting married, changing jobs, or buying a car. Also visit Thimphu Dzong (fortress). The Dzong was rebuilt by His Majesty the Third King of Bhutan,

King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, in 1962, when the capital of Bhutan was moved from Punakha to Thimphu. Since that time, it has been the seat of the Government of Bhutan. Undoubtedly Thimphu’s most imposing building, you will have time to enjoy its quiet courtyards, the small Lhakhang Sarp chapel and the Dzong’s imposing utse (tower). Dinner and overnight stay at Thimphu hotel.

Day 3. Thimphu – Dochula – Toebchandana

After breakfast at your hotel, you will be transferred east to the Dochula Pass to begin today’s run which stands at 3,116 metres (10,224 feet) above sea level. Mountain passes are some of the most sacred places in Bhutan and so it is customary to burn incense as an offering in places such as this. You may also wish to join locals in hanging colourful prayer flags as a sign of respect to the Gods.

While at Dochula you will be able the Druk Wangyal Lhakhang (temple), built in honour of His Majesty the Fourth King Gyalpo Jigme Singye Wangchuck and to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Bhutanese Monarchy. The paintings in this temple are unique insofar as they combine modern flourishes with century-old techniques. The Temple hosts a yearly tshechu (festival) which pays tribute to the wise leadership of His Majesty the King and the ongoing efforts of the Royal Bhutanese Army in protecting Bhutan’s sovereignty. You should also visit the Druk Wangyal Chorten (stupa), also known as the ‘108 Chortens’, and its nearby meditation caves. From the Pass, run down into the adjacent valley and join a section of the trail known as the ‘Divine Madman Trail’. You are now following in the footsteps of the Divine Madman himself, Drukpa Kuenley, when he came to Bhutan from Tibet in the 16th century to fulfil his destiny of suppressing evil energies.

Over the coming days, you will come across a number of important cultural sites and extraordinary stories related to the life of Drukpa Kuenley. You will make a stop for a picnic lunch at Thinleygang Lhakhang (temple) before continuing down towards Toeb Chandana. On arrival, visit the Toeb Chandana Lhakhang (temple), also known as the Chandana Lhakhang, meaning ‘where the arrow landed’. Legend has it that when Drukpa Kuenley fired an arrow from Tibet to determine his course, it landed here in Toeb Chandana.

The temple itself was built in the 15th century to ward off the evil energy of a demoness and then served as the religious seat of Ngawang Chogyal. The two hills at each end of the temple resemble knees and are said to be the knees of Ngawang Chogyal herself. Next door to the Temple is the house of Toeb Tshewang, which Drukpa Kuenley’s arrow is said to have struck when it landed. Legend has it that, dressed as a hunting beggar, Kuenley courted Tshewang’s wife and that, in a fit of jealous rage, Tshewang drew a sword which Drukpa Kuenley miraculously knotted. Thus, realizing Kuenley’s divine power, Tshewang offered him his wife as a gift to aid him in fulfilling his prophecies. The building still houses the eleven-stepped wooden ladder that Kuenley’s arrow is said to have struck; and the descendants of Tshewang have preserved the house as a monument for fifteen generations. Dinner and overnight stay at the deluxe luxury camp.

Trek Distance: 11.75 kilometres (7.30 miles)

Elevation Gain: 51 metres (167 feet)

Elevation Loss: 1,590 metres (5,217 feet)

Starting Elevation: 3,116 metres (10,224 feet)

Ending Elevation: 1,572 metres (5,158 feet)

Maximum Elevation: 3,116 metres (10,224 feet)

Day 4. Toebchandana – Punakha Dzong

After breakfast this morning, bid farewell to Toeb Chandana as you commence the ascent towards Sew Drangsa. In recent years, the central monastic body occasionally uses this route to reach its winter residence in Punakha and to return to Thimphu in the summer. At Sew Drangsa, you will find a clearing marked with prayer flags, which is where the monks stop for lunch en route. From Sew Drangsa, the trail descends towards Punakha Dzong (fortress), offering spectacular views of the Punakha Valley on the way. On arrival in Punakha, enjoy a live cooking demonstration followed by an outdoor lunch. Then, in the afternoon, enjoy a gentle rafting expedition down the Mochhu River. Head to the put-in spot, around 6 kilometres (3.7 miles) north of Punakha Dzong and enjoy a leisurely float down the wide river valley past Her Majesty the Queen’s winter residences and His Majesty the King’s weekend retreat. Dinner and overnight stay at deluxe luxury camp.

Trek Distance: 12.16 kilometres (7.56 miles)

Elevation Gain: 185 metres (607 feet)

Elevation Loss: 552 metres (1,811 feet)

Starting Elevation: 1,598 metres (5,243 feet)

Ending Elevation: 1,226 metres (4,023 feet)

Maximum Elevation: 1,752 metres (5,748 feet)

Day 5. Punakha Stay

Today, enjoy a full day of sightseeing in the beautiful town of Punakha. Start off at the Bazam (bridge) across the river from Punakha Dzong (fortress). Once on the other side, enjoy a tour of the Dzong (fortress), which was built by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in around 1637 at the confluence of the Phochhu (Male River) and the Mochhu (female river). Arguably, it is the most beautiful Dzong in the country. The Dzong guards Bhutan’s most treasured relic, the Rangjung Kharsapani, an image of Chenresig kept away from the public in the utse (tower). It has survived Tibetan invasions, numerous fires, floods and a glacial lake burst.

The Dzong served as the capital and seat of the Bhutanese Government until the early 1950s; and the coronation of His Majesty the First Druk, Gyalpo Ugyen Wangchuck, took place here. The building currently serves as the winter residence for the monastic body. Also visit the imposing Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Choeten (stupa), which was built in 2004 to protect. Bhutan from evil forces and bring peace to the world. The stupa is accessible via a one-hour trek up a pleasant trail to the north of Punakha. Afterwards, head to the Chimi Lhakhang (temple), built in 1499 by the 14th Drukpa hierarch, Ngawang Choegyel. It is said that the site was originally founded when the Divine Madman, Drukpa Kuenley, built a chorten here after having tamed a demon with a magic thunderbolt of wisdom, trapping it in a rock. Dinner and overnight stay at deluxe luxury camp.

Trek Distance: 2.82 kilometres (miles)

Elevation Gain: 194 metres (637 feet)

Elevation Loss: 167 metres (548 feet)

Starting Elevation: 1,272 metres (4,173 feet)

Ending Elevation: 1,272 metres (4,173 feet)

Maximum Elevation: 1,463 metres (4,800 feet)

Day 6. Punakha – Limbukha

After breakfast at your hotel, rejoin the trail for a run eastward towards Lingmukha. Initially, the trail winds through paddy fields and then climbs relatively steeply until reaching a chorten (stupa) which marks the highest point on today’s run. Enjoy a picnic lunch and scenic views of the valleys to the north from here. After lunch, the trail descends down into the pretty Lingmukha Valley, with the last hour or so of today’s Run being along the feeder road. This Valley is commonly referred to as Lingmup Sher gi Zhom, which Translates as “the golden bowl”, on account of the many rice fields which lie beneath ridges to either side. Here, you will visit the Lingmukha Lhakhang (temple), built by the great discoverer of treasure Terton Dorjee Lingpa. Oral tradition has it that Dorjee Lingpa arrived in Lingmukha in the 14th century, built the Lhakhang and then settled there along with his disciples. The Great Master is said to have discovered many ters (treasures) in the village. After your visit to the temple, head to your campsite. Dnner and overnight syay at the camp.

Trek Distance: 12 kilometres (7.46 miles)

Elevation Gain: 948 metres (3,110 feet)

Elevation Loss: 81 metres (266 feet)

Starting Elevation: 1,288 metres (4,226 feet)

Ending Elevation: 2,147 metres (7,044 feet)

Maximum Elevation: 2,147 metres (7,044 feet)

Day 7. Limbukha – Samtengang

After breakfast at camp, rejoin the trail running east towards Samtengang. Historically, this section of the trail would have often been used by natives of Lingmukha and the people of Phangyul in the adjacent valley. Although the two villages are separated by a steep ridge, they strongly believe themselves to be close blood relatives sharing the same cultural roots. The trail rises from deep in the Lingmukha Valley, climbing steeply through dense forest until it reaches a rest stop built at a pass. From the pass, you will descend sharply, enjoying panoramic views of the Shar Valleys. Stop on the way to visit the Chungse Azhe Gyalzom Lhakhang (temple), which is built on the place where a Chan-do (a small, disc-like stone), thrown by the Divine Madman, Lam Drukpa Kuenley from Sha Kuenzangling on the other side of the valley, is said to have landed. Nearby, in the small village of Chungseykha, you will enjoy a hot lunch served in a local restaurant. After lunch, the trail will pass by small farming villages perched on steep slopes as it climbs towards Samtengang, where you will find your campsite set up for overnight.

At the campsite, enjoy a hot shower. A dinner prepared from organic, locally-sourced produce will be provided.

Trek Distance: 13.85 kilometres (8.61 miles)

Elevation Gain: 935 metres (3,068 feet)

Elevation Loss: 1,133 metres (3,717 feet)

Starting Elevation: 2,147 metres (7,044 feet)

Ending Elevation: 1,950 metres (6,398 feet)

Maximum Elevation: 2,462 metres (8,078 feet)

Day 8. Samtengang – Paro

After breakfast at camp, you will be transfered west to the town of Paro. On arrival in Paro, visit Ta Dzong or the ‘watchtower’, originally built in 1649 to protect Paro Dzong from the Tibetan military. In 1968, Ta Dzong became Bhutan’s National Museum, and is now home to a number of exhibitions including sculpture, painting and artifacts depicting Bhutan’s magical past. Afterwards, continue to the stunning Paro Rinpung Dzong (fortress), meaning ‘Fortress on a Heap of Jewels’. The original construction of this Dzong is believed to have been completed in 1458 and it was restored to its present glory by His Majesty the Third of Bhutan, King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, to mark his royal wedding in 1951. After the visit, head to your hotel and enjoy the remainder of the at leisure. Dinner and overnight stay at Paro hotel.

Day 9. Paro – Bumdra.

After breakfast at your hotel, enjoy a spectacular drive to Sangchen Choekhor Shedra (monastery), perched high above the Paro Valley. This Buddhist college, which is home to about 150 monks, studying for six years before they move on to Tango Monastery upon graduation. After a brief visit, commence an exhilarating run along the Bumdrak Trail. From the Sangchen Choekhor Shedra (monastery), the trail climbs through a forest of blue pine before leveling off as it passes through oak and rhododendron forest. From here, climb towards Choechotse Lhakhang (temple), from which you will enjoy excellent views down over the Paro Valley. From the temple, your run will take you through forests of larch, silver fir and juniper, before heading across meadows from which you will be able to see the Bumdrak Lhakhang (temple) in the distance. After visiting the temple, continue the short distance to your campsite for dinner and overnight.

Trek Distance: 6.97 kilometres (4.33 miles)

Elevation Gain: 999 metres (3,278 feet)

Elevation Loss:  45 metres (148 feet)

Starting Elevation: 2,900 metres (9,515 feet)

Ending Elevation: 3,853 metres (12,642 feet)

Maximum Elevation: 3,853 metres (12,642 feet)

Day 10. Bumdra – Tiger’s Nest – Paro

After breakfast at camp, start the long descent from Bumdra towards the Taktshang Goemba, more Commonly known as the ‘Tiger’s Nest Monastery’. The first section of the trail descends through forests Of larch and silver pine towards Yoselgang, where the assembly hall has a fine woodblock print depicting Guru Rinpoche’s eight manifestations. The trail then passes by Ugyen Tshemo Lhakhang before, shortly After, you will join a steep shortcut path to the Tiger’s Nest via the Machig-phu Lhakhang (temple). Precariously perched on a sheer cliff face 900 metres (2,950 feet) above the Paro Valley floor, the Tiger’s Nest is undoubtedly Bhutan’s most famous religious building. It is built on the site where Guru Rinpoche is said to have arrived on the back of a tigress when he came to subdue the local demon, Singye Samdrup. After subduing the demon, Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated in a cave here for three whole Months.

Once you have reached the Tiger’s Nest, you will have a chance to visit the cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated, as well as the extensive network of Lhakhangs (chapels) which house images, murals, chortens, and a holy spring. After your visit, walk some 90 minutes back down to the main access road, where your vehicle will be waiting to transfer you back to Paro. Dinner and overnight stay at Paro hotel.

Trek Distance: 7.23 kilometres (4.49 miles)

Elevation Gain: 102 metres (335 feet)

Elevation Loss:  1,359 metres (4,459 feet)

Starting Elevation: 3,853 metres (9,515 feet)

Ending Elevation: 2,584 metres (8,478 feet)

Maximum Elevation: 3,853 metres (12,642 feet)

Day 11. Paro – Airport.

Breakfast at the hotel and then driver to Paro Airport for our onward flight. Your guide and driver will bid you farewell here at the airport.

 Thank you and Tashi Delek.